I built myself one of MikeysRC.com FPV V3 biplanes. I put a FlipHD on it and an iPhone 4S with an Otterbox case on it; this is a very heavy set up, in case you’re wondering. It uses a Turnigy 2830 1050kv motor with a 2200mah Turnigy lipo.
I highly recommend this plane to anyone flying FPV with a GoPro or a similar heavy camera and/or equipment on board. It took 3 sheets of Dollar Tree foam board, a wood dowel, a dozen glue sticks and some strapping tape. Flies very well and I love that the COG can be moved around easily. Check it out at MikeysRC.com
So, I’ve been MIA for a few weeks or so; since early august. I have been up to stuff and one of those stuffs is a 125% Dead-Simple wing from specs found at RCGroups. Instead of 24-inch wing-span, I built mine 30 inches wide. I put on a Blue Wonder and took to the skies.
On Saturday, September 24th, I went to Ives Estates Park with my friend, Julio and my wife and son to fly the wing. I had flown it once before and had great success but crashed it. After repairing it, it looked pretty good so I decided I could go for it again.
It flew on rails. It was as smooth and straight as it gets. We clocked it at 51 MPH on the following setup:
It rolls pretty good and you can see it can fly really slow too. After a few flights, we changed batteries and flew again.
Julio had never before flown and RC plane so I thought I’d let him fly my cheap wing since he had a ton of hours on a simulator. He did f’awesome! He even dead-sticked it! Here’s Julio’s second flight:
Overall we had a pretty awesome time. The wing is crashed again but I can fix it. I might make a new one but we’ll see how much free time I have. Look out for my next project: A way-fast jet.
Also, I’ve noticed those OrangeRX 6-channel receivers have pretty good range. I flew the wing out almost out of LOS and never glitched. Pretty sweet for a $6 receiver.
I first built a 24 inch one but I felt it was too tiny for the setup I wanted. I was right.
So that’s on a shelf until I figure out what to do with it. It’ll probably end up as the wing on another project. For now I’m trying to continue on this project:
It’s partly copied from the Phase III Squall but without the long end and it’ll have two vertical stabs. That shouldn’t be done anytime soon. I expect to finish it in 6-8 weeks or so; depends on how much time I have to work on it.
As always, follow me on Twitter (@killerwin) to keep up with my day-to-day dealings.
The H-29 Pushprop Jet by chara is a small park jet with a mid-mounted motor and taileron configuration. It uses only two servos and three channels. The thrust pushes directly through the tail, being slightly diverted by the elevons; giving this model superb performance similar to other, more complex, thrust-vectoring models. Last time I wrote about this plane I had flown it with a 7×5 APC prop and didn’t like the performance.
So I finally tested two other propellers with the 28-26 1360kv motor. Previously I had chosen a seven-inch propeller because I thought if I went up to the recommended eight-inch it would strike the wood dowels on the twin booms but later noticed there was plenty of clearance, so I got a GWS 8×6 and an APC 8×8 today and went out to test which would give me better performance. On the bench test, the GWS 8×6 seemed to give me much more thrust but I found out otherwise at the field.
APC propellers are built for speed. Once they reach enough RPMs, they produce efficient thrust. GWS propellers, in the other hand, are built for general-purpose and scale flight. They produce max thrust almost immediately but are slightly less efficient at higher RPMs.
Watch the video and enjoy.
Wondering how I shot the video and flew at the same time? Here’s the rig:
I built Chara’s H29 Jet last week. I wanted a fast-to-build, simple, fun jet to fly at the park. I used Elmer’s Foam Board, wood dowels, and Gorilla glue. I knew it would end up heavy, but I wanted the added weight for stability in the wind. I went with an Exceed RC Alpha 370 brushless motor, 1360 kv with a 7×5 prop.
It few well but nowhere as fast as I want. I had the rates set at 100% for high and 50% low but that was way too much. I have to try 50% high and 35% low next time. I read up on people using 8×7 props with this motor so I’ll go with one of those next flight.
A few weeks ago I started to build a full-fuse foamie from Elmers’ foam board, Gorilla Glue and Plywood. It came along nicely and was looking good. I named it the T-32 Thunder. Unfortunately, on its maiden flight I crashed it because of strong winds. I believe it needed other changes for it to fly properly, anyways.
The wing survived the crash and I might rebuild the airplane someday. I still have a lot to learn.
What a fun jet! I took the Park Jet out today for some trials at Ives Estates Park. I was trying on a new APC 9×6 prop and some new LiPos. The new prop along with a new lighter 30C LiPo makes the Jet scream! It was the most fun I’ve had with a model yet. Here’s a video of one of the first flights:
I’m flying with a 2200 3S 20C Zippy but it zoomed with a 1300 30C Turnigy! Man, I have to go back tomorrow. I’ll take the Super Cub too since I put ailerons on it. That, too, should be fun :)
Electric RC flight has come a long way the last few years and foam as a building material has revolutionized the way we’re building park-flyers. While we’re pretty set on what kinds of foam work great for building planes, we’re still exploring the hundreds of bonding materials to find those that do not damage our foam, have a strong hold and weigh as little as possible. Here are some of the best glues to use on foam like Depron, EPP, EPS, EPO, paper-faced Foam Board and the most common foams used by foamie modelers.
As far as strength and (light) weight go, Gorilla Glue takes the cake. It dries white and sets in about 30 minutes. It foams up a little to fill gaps, something many modelers dislike because it tends to squeeze out of joints and onto clean surfaces. An easy fix is to cover the surface with clear tape right after gluing. This not only helps keep the foamed-up glue in, but it also hold the two parts together until the glue dries. To help speed-up the setting process, I wet both surfaces to be glued right before applying Gorilla Glue. Other modelers like to mix 1-part Gorilla Glue to 1-part water-based glues like Elmer’s School Glue and even 3-parts Gorilla Glue to 1-part water! Gorilla Glue goes for about $5 for a 2 ounce bottle and it can be found at Walmart, The Home Depot, Lowe’s and virtually every hardware/craft store.
Cyanoacrylate (CA) adhesives are among the most common used in modeling. They are fast-setting and hold a decent bond. For the ever-growing foam business within RC, new foam-safe CA glues have appeared in the last few years. They come in various viscosities like thin, medium and thick. Most commonly used is the thick, slow-curing CA. This is due to foam’s porous properties and the need to fill the gaps in it. Foam-Safe CA is worked onto one surface with a long tip and a toludine-based activator is applied to the other. When both surfaces are joined, there are only about 3 seconds until the glue sets. Since CA doesn’t hold the strongest of bonds, it is not the best choice for models that will endure high speeds or stress on the airframe. I like to keep it in my field box for quick fixes only since it’s very expensive locally (about $8 for 1 ounce of CA and $10 for the activator). Found only at Local Hobby Shops and online Hobby Stores.
Hot Glue comes in solid “sticks” of various lengths and diameters and is melted with an electric gun that also squeezes it out of a nozzle tip. Many modelers like hot-glue for building with foam. It holds a strong bond and is easy to work with but it stays a bit flexible — which might be a good thing in a few applications, but not most. Make sure the gun is set to low temperature and you won’t damage the foam. With Hot-melt Glue you’ll get a strong, inexpensive bond in seconds. The Gun can be found for as little as $5 at Walmart and the sticks for about $3 for a few dozen.
Epoxy is a popular, strong and inexpensive adhesive but it adds a bit of weight to models. There are a large selection of Epoxies to choose from. Most users like 5-minute Epoxy since it sets quickly. I, personally, am not very fond of it since I have found other glues that out-perform it. It comes in two chemicals in gel form. You mix the two by way of a stick or paddle and apply it to the surfaces with such tool. Epoxy can be found at home improvement and hardware stores for $4-10 per 1 to 2 ounce syringe.
Lastly, not a glue but other popular glues for building RC planes with foam. The list includes Ultimate RC Foam Glue, Fab-Tack (very similar to URCFG), some Elmer’s glues, silicone caulking (very heavy!), UHU Por, UHU Creativ and an endless list of adhesives that dominate the modeling world. I suggest trying Gorilla Glue, Foam-Safe CA and Hot Glue before any others. If you aren’t happy with those, try reading through the RCGroups.com and RCUniverse.com forums for other ideas and stories.