I built myself one of MikeysRC.com FPV V3 biplanes. I put a FlipHD on it and an iPhone 4S with an Otterbox case on it; this is a very heavy set up, in case you’re wondering. It uses a Turnigy 2830 1050kv motor with a 2200mah Turnigy lipo.
I highly recommend this plane to anyone flying FPV with a GoPro or a similar heavy camera and/or equipment on board. It took 3 sheets of Dollar Tree foam board, a wood dowel, a dozen glue sticks and some strapping tape. Flies very well and I love that the COG can be moved around easily. Check it out at MikeysRC.com
Finally decided to take video of my Stryker at the park. I strapped my iPhone to the transmitter with some rubber bands and tried my best to keep the plane in frame. It’s not too bad. This is a quick video I put together on my phone on the field so expect a better, HD video later.
Sadly, the MAYDAY blog has been very quiet lately. I’ve been flying and building but I just don’t have the time to keep updating the blog as much as I used to. I will make time soon, you can expect some videos in early April.
In the last couple of months and coming up:
Built a Parkzone Stryker F27C from parts with a Turnigy motor. Have to clock it but I guess about 70 MPH.
Fixed damaged Super Cub.
Started taking a lot more pictures and videos of everything (just haven’t had time to upload).
Planning to build a new plane or airboat from scratch.
As always, I’m available for flying around South Florida and for RC help via email or social networking. My number one goal with this site is to help RC pilots with issues I had and wished someone would help me with when I started flying three years ago.
You can email me, hit me up on Twitter @killerwin, PM me on RCGroups.com, comment to this or any blog post or hit “Call Me” down there to connect to my cellphone.
So, I’ve been MIA for a few weeks or so; since early august. I have been up to stuff and one of those stuffs is a 125% Dead-Simple wing from specs found at RCGroups. Instead of 24-inch wing-span, I built mine 30 inches wide. I put on a Blue Wonder and took to the skies.
On Saturday, September 24th, I went to Ives Estates Park with my friend, Julio and my wife and son to fly the wing. I had flown it once before and had great success but crashed it. After repairing it, it looked pretty good so I decided I could go for it again.
It flew on rails. It was as smooth and straight as it gets. We clocked it at 51 MPH on the following setup:
It rolls pretty good and you can see it can fly really slow too. After a few flights, we changed batteries and flew again.
Julio had never before flown and RC plane so I thought I’d let him fly my cheap wing since he had a ton of hours on a simulator. He did f’awesome! He even dead-sticked it! Here’s Julio’s second flight:
Overall we had a pretty awesome time. The wing is crashed again but I can fix it. I might make a new one but we’ll see how much free time I have. Look out for my next project: A way-fast jet.
Also, I’ve noticed those OrangeRX 6-channel receivers have pretty good range. I flew the wing out almost out of LOS and never glitched. Pretty sweet for a $6 receiver.
It’s raining non-stop in Miami so I’ve taken the opportunity to build and repair. This time I’m cutting some carbon fiber rods that will be going into a 30″ Dead Simple Wing. I use a Chicago Electric Dremel-like rotary tool with a cutting blade to snap 2 CF rods down to 18″
Presented in HD 720p Thanks to my new Flip UltraHD:
If you’re flying like me, you’re probably replacing propellers and bending motor shafts like there’s no tomorrow. This is especially true if you’re flying from a grass field. The problem is that when your propeller hits the ground, either it takes the force of the impact or, if it’s still turning with throttle, it can bend the motor shaft.
Early on when I started flying RC I kept hearing about prop savers. I didn’t really get the benefit until I used one myself. Now I use a prop saver on every 3 or 4 mm motor shaft! I’d love to say I have no more broken props or bent shafts but all I can say is that it has drastically reduced prop fatalities and shaft replacements.
Here’s how a prop saver works
It’s a small aluminum ring that fits on the motor shaft like on Figure 1. It has two milled, threaded holes where little screws go and it comes with one or two rubber bands (you only need one).
After putting the prop saver on the shaft you tighten the screws so that it doesn’t spin free from the shaft or slide off the shaft. You then put the propeller onto the front of the prop saver and attach the rubber band from one screw, around the front of the propeller and onto the other screw.
Now your prop has some room to flex back-and-forth and spin free from the motor a little. So if you hit the ground, the rubber band takes the force a little instead of passing it to the prop or shaft.
The H-29 Pushprop Jet by chara is a small park jet with a mid-mounted motor and taileron configuration. It uses only two servos and three channels. The thrust pushes directly through the tail, being slightly diverted by the elevons; giving this model superb performance similar to other, more complex, thrust-vectoring models. Last time I wrote about this plane I had flown it with a 7×5 APC prop and didn’t like the performance.
So I finally tested two other propellers with the 28-26 1360kv motor. Previously I had chosen a seven-inch propeller because I thought if I went up to the recommended eight-inch it would strike the wood dowels on the twin booms but later noticed there was plenty of clearance, so I got a GWS 8×6 and an APC 8×8 today and went out to test which would give me better performance. On the bench test, the GWS 8×6 seemed to give me much more thrust but I found out otherwise at the field.
APC propellers are built for speed. Once they reach enough RPMs, they produce efficient thrust. GWS propellers, in the other hand, are built for general-purpose and scale flight. They produce max thrust almost immediately but are slightly less efficient at higher RPMs.
Watch the video and enjoy.
Wondering how I shot the video and flew at the same time? Here’s the rig: