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( Understading RC Servos: Digital, Coreless, Analog, Brushless – via RCHelicopterFun.com )

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If I would have to start all over again, there are many radios I’d opt for. A good first radio should:

• have at least six channels
• allow for multiple model memory
• use 2.4 Ghz spread spectrum technology
• feature a trainer port
• feature at least three mixes
• allow servo reversal & travel adjustment on all channels
• feature exponential & dual rates
• feature sub-trim

Many experienced flyers and hobby stores will tell you a simple four channel radio is sufficient for a beginner, but what about when you are done with your 3- or 4-channel trainer? There’s the issue to consider when choosing a new radio: how long until you’ll want to upgrade? Balancing your starting budget and future expectations for your radio is key.

How many channels, and what does that mean?

Each channel on your radio system controls a different thing on your model. On a basic trainer you’ll usually find four channels being used: one for throttle (Electronic Speed Controller on electric models or Throttle Servo on nitro and gas models), one for the rudder, one for the elevator and one to control the ailerons.

Four channels are okay if you’re only planning on flying basic models for a couple of years (trust me, you’ll want to fly more complex and fun models really soon!) or if you’re able to dish out around $100-$200 for another radio later on.

Six channels will allow you to fly helis and models with retractable landing gear, flaps and more servos that do fun stuff. This isn’t gibberish and it isn’t just for experienced pilots; it will make sense to you as soon as a couple of months of flying and crashing your models.

Model memory

This one is easy to explain: model memories are different sets of saved settings, one set for each one of your models (a trainer, a warbird, a heli, a glider, etc.). This saves you from having to change all the settings every time you’re going to fly a new model.Instead, you just switch to a new model memory and those previously saved settings load onto the transmitter. Ten model memories are great but I recommend at least five.

Transmitting frequency

You know, 72 Mhz radios have been around for decades and they have proven to be reliable when used with frequency crystals, but with new cell towers being added daily and communications frequencies increasing, 2.4 Ghz technology is the way to go. Even though most beginner RC pilots will tend to stay away from other flyers and thus from interference from other radios, spread spectrum is still highly recommended for its safety and reliability.

2.4 Ghz is the frequency in which the radio system transmits and spread spectrum is a relatively new technology to RC that performs frequency hopping multiple times per second, allowing the radio to lock on to and use unoccupied frequencies, eliminating interference between radios.

Trainer mode

All beginners should get with a buddy that knows how to fly and connect two transmitters together on “trainer” mode. This allows the more experienced pilot to take control of the model should anything go wrong. Absolutely essential.

Custom mixes

Mixes bring completely new functionality to your models. They allow you to do things like control multiple servos with one channel and move multiple control surfaces simultaneously. Without mixes, you cannot fly elevon-type aircraft like the popular “flying wings” or some types of jets.

Other features

As soon as you move away from the trainer stage, you’ll not just want more functionality from your radio, you’ll need it. Servo reversal is a must; it allows you to reverse the direction a servo moves. This is required when a control input sends the control surface the wrong way. Exponential and dual rates allow you to make precise control inputs even when yanking the sticks around (a tendency of all new pilots). Trim allows you to make miniscule adjustments to the neutral position of the control surfaces and Sub-trim allows you to make even more precise adjustments; a very nice feature when you’re trimming your model for the first time.

Recommended radios

Lets get down to business; here are some of the radios of various price ranges I’d totally recommend to a beginner.

 Spektrum DX6i

The Spektrum DX6i is the perfect beginner’s radio. It is made by Horizon Hobby, known for amazing reliability and excellent customer satisfaction. These radios are tough and reliable. They boast a bunch of features and a digital display with a clicker-wheel. It goes for about $160 for the transmitter and $50 for receivers.

Notable features:

I currently own a DX6i and it was an upgrade from another great radio, the HobbyKing T6a.

HobbyKing T6a

This radio has served me well; so well, I still use it! It is very economic, just $23 bucks with a receiver included!  The HobbyKing T6a may not be the best-looking radio and yes, it has its share of downfalls, but for those of us on a very tight budget it’s a dream-come-true. It doesn’t have an on-board display so you have to use a laptop or desktop PC to program it, has no exponential rates and it’s NOT full-range (only hops on 2 frequencies), but it’s packed full of features and you can get some economic receivers.

Notable features:

• 6-channel
• 2.4GHz
• Servo Reversing
• Trainer Mode
• Sub Trim
• Dual Rates
• Three Mixes

Turnigy 9X

The iMax 9X has been re-branded a few times into the FlySky 9X and the Turnigy 9X. This is another awesome radio for the RC pilot on a budget. It’ll run you $40 (including a receiver) but with some features the T6a lacks like a built-in LCD screen and 8 channels. It has had a few software bugs in the past that have been fixed as of the last firmware update, according to HobbyKing. Additional receivers go for about $9.

Notable features:

• 8 channels
• 8 Model Memories
• Sub Trim
• Modular
• Travel Adjustment
• Servo Reversing
• Timer
• Dual Rates
• Exponential Rates
• Pre-programmed features: Flaperons, V-Tail mixing, Elevons

Those are my top recommendations. There are many other very good and even better radios. Do your homework and don’t let the guy at the hobby shopup-sell you. If you have a budget of $200 or more, you can get an excellent radio like JR or Hitec. If your budget is $100 to $200, look into used Spektrum and Futaba on the forums, you can find some great deals on awesome radios. If your budget for a radio is less than $100, you know where to go: HobbyKing.com. Always remember those points I mentioned at the beginning of the article and don’t settle for less.

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On Saturday, September 24th, I went to Ives Estates Park with my friend, Julio and my wife and son to fly the wing. I had flown it once before and had great success but crashed it. After repairing it, it looked pretty good so I decided I could go for it again.

It flew on rails. It was as smooth and straight as it gets. We clocked it at 51 MPH on the following setup:

• Motor: hexTronik 24gram Brushless Outrunner 1700kv
• Propeller: 5×7 APC
• ESC: Turnigy Basic 18A
• Servos: HK15178 analog 10g
• Battery: GravityHobby 800mAh 3S 20C LiPo

It rolls pretty good and you can see it can fly really slow too. After a few flights, we changed batteries and flew again.

Julio had never before flown and RC plane so I thought I’d let him fly my cheap wing since he had a ton of hours on a simulator. He did f’awesome! He even dead-sticked it! Here’s Julio’s second flight:

Overall we had a pretty awesome time. The wing is crashed again but I can fix it. I might make a new one but we’ll see how much free time I have. Look out for my next project: A way-fast jet.

Also, I’ve noticed those OrangeRX 6-channel receivers have pretty good range. I flew the wing out almost out of LOS and never glitched. Pretty sweet for a $6 receiver.

Don’t forget to Subscribe and Follow me.

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It’s a Dead-Simple Wing made bigger and with blue foam and foamboard instead of Depron. It flew really nice on the following setup:

• Motor: 1700kv 24 gram outrunner (Blue Wonder)
• ESC: Turnigy Basic 18A Brushless
• Battery: Turnigy 1300 mAh 3S 20C LiPo
• Servos: 2x HK15178 Analog 10g Servos with 20CM extentions

I’m also loving the OrangeRX R610 6-channel receivers (the ones with the sat port) on my DX6i. I have a Gravity Hobby 800 mAh 3S 25C LiPo that I bought specifically for this model that I’ve yet to try but it’s a lot lighter and delivers a bit more power.

I crashed it and need to repair it.

I first built a 24 inch one but I felt it was too tiny for the setup I wanted. I was right.

So that’s on a shelf until I figure out what to do with it. It’ll probably end up as the wing on another project. For now I’m trying to continue on this project:

It’s partly copied from the Phase III Squall but without the long end and it’ll have two vertical stabs. That shouldn’t be done anytime soon. I expect to finish it in 6-8 weeks or so; depends on how much time I have to work on it.

As always, follow me on Twitter (@killerwin) to keep up with my day-to-day dealings.

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It’s raining non-stop in Miami so I’ve taken the opportunity to build and repair. This time I’m cutting some carbon fiber rods that will be going into a 30″ Dead Simple Wing. I use a Chicago Electric Dremel-like rotary tool with a cutting blade to snap 2 CF rods down to 18″

Presented in HD 720p Thanks to my new Flip UltraHD:

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First MAYDAY logo ever. Old and boring.

The second time around I added the Pitts Special. A little better <3

NEW logo. All postapocalyptic and stuff. I like it :D

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Early on when I started flying RC I kept hearing about prop savers. I didn’t really get the benefit until I used one myself. Now I use a prop saver on every 3 or 4 mm motor shaft! I’d love to say I have no more broken props or bent shafts but all I can say is that it has drastically reduced prop fatalities and shaft replacements.

Here’s how a prop saver works

It’s a small aluminum ring that fits on the motor shaft like on Figure 1. It has two milled, threaded holes where little screws go and it comes with one or two rubber bands (you only need one).

Figure 1: Prop saver installed on a motor. Notice the rubber band holding the propeller on.

After putting the prop saver on the shaft you tighten the screws so that it doesn’t spin free from the shaft or slide off the shaft. You then put the propeller onto the front of the prop saver and attach the rubber band from one screw, around the front of the propeller and onto the other screw.

Now your prop has some room to flex back-and-forth and spin free from the motor a little. So if you hit the ground, the rubber band takes the force a little instead of passing it to the prop or shaft.

Prop shafts are cheap! You can find one at a local hobby shop for about 3 or 4 bucks but you can buy a pack of ten (3mm) online for less than three dollars! (or 4mm for less than four)

They come in all shapes and sizes but all do the same function: save props… and shafts.

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my plane http://twitpic.com/4l8klt

April 15, 2011 2:46 PM via TwitpicReplyRetweetFavorite

@Rctestflight

RCTESTFLIGHT

For more information about how this airplane ended up where it ended up see this video:

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te8mBIjwfK0

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I only have pictures (and crappy ones!) because I lost my digital camera so I had to use my mobil phone.

The first thing I did was put flaps on. I used these hinges I had bought from HobbyKing like a year ago and didn’t know what to do with them because they sucked as “hatch hinges” like they had been advertised. I like them for flaps because I can make a single cut instead of having to bevel the edge of the flaps, thus keeping the wing totally free of indentations when the flaps are up.

Flaps up. You can barely tell they are there!

That was supposed to be IT. I just wanted to add flaps to the SC. I then thought “Hmm… I should put flapperons TOO!” so I did. I removed the Y-lead and installed two 200mm lead extensions on the servos to split the aileron channel in two. Then I mixed them together with two switches. So I can lower the flaps with or without the flapperons.

Flaps ONLY down

Flaps AND Flapperons down

I also mixed in down-elevator with the flaps and also on a switch to turn it on and off. You can see that in the two pictures above.

Now, my transforming Super Cub (hopefully) can slow down to a crawl.

But WAIT! There’s more! :D

I went up to the attic and found a few goodies in a bin! I found my old SC landing gear! I put those on, as you can see from those pics up there. I had been flying with the rear end of the floats set held on by screws!

I also found a brand new rudder in a pack that used to be a SC tail feathers kit. This rudder has a tail wheel on! AWESOME for me because I had cut off my old tail wheel when I was flying the SC with tricycle landing gear.

And something I had wanted to do for a long time: I counter-balanced the elevator and rudder, as found in many clipped wing cubs. I LOVE the look of that :)

Counter-balanced rudder and elevator

Of course I’m using the OrangeRx 6-ch receiver and taking up every single channel and every mix on the DX6i, including the gear mix, Mix 1 and Mix 2.

Every servo slot is used!

Actually I didn’t use the Flaps mix for reasons only known to me. lol. I can change it later if I feel I have to ;D

Top of the wing with flaps and flapperons down.

Step-by-step tutorials and videos on how to do all this will be coming soon. I just have to find my camera :(

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• I bought a DX6i and am loving it. The HK T6a will go to a new flyer.
• Got a few OrangeRx 6-channel receivers (pictured) for the new DSM2 radio. Will report on those later.
• I’ve also started and finished construction on a new flying wing (pictured) made from foamboard. Flight video within a week or so.

More reviews of HobbyKing stuff coming, also some instructional videos on programming for best results and DX6i stuff, I’d like to concentrate on instructional videos more and start building with bluecor foam so watch for that.

Remember to subscribe to get all the updates and new posts as soon as they’re published and follow me on Twitter and Subscribe on YouTube.

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